The staff of De Hogeweyk wanted to get away from traditional institutions, Eloy van Hal, one of the founders, says—“where you’re locked up indoors, where you are living in a big group with nice nurses running around in white uniforms saying, ‘Please be seated, please be seated.’ ” In a traditional nursing home, residents sit around on chairs in large, clattery dayrooms, the television turned up loud, surrounded by noisy crowds of odd-seeming people and nurses bustling about. The lights are too bright, the furniture and pictures are ugly. There is nothing to do other than some childish crafts, and nowhere to walk to. The residents almost never go outdoors. Small wonder, van Hal and his colleagues thought, that they began acting in ways that staff found difficult to deal with—banging on tables, shouting, kicking at doors, trying to get out.

The door from De Hogeweyk to the outside world has to be locked. Many people with dementia wander and become lost, so they can’t go outside on their own. But within De Hogeweyk residents who can get about by themselves are allowed to wander where they like—along the brick paths, through the indoor mall, up and down in elevators. The staff were told by experts that it was too dangerous to allow such a thing, that unsupervised residents would climb into the fountain or eat the leaves off the bushes. But the founders believed that it was better to accept some risk for the sake of freedom, and that Dutch people didn’t eat bushes or climb into fountains, and, in fact, in all the years that De Hogeweyk has been open only one resident has ever climbed into the fountain, and she did it on purpose, to annoy the staff, because she was angry that she couldn’t leave. So the residents walk about freely and sit around in the courtyards, watching people go by.

Early in the morning, aides and some residents came from the houses to shop at the supermarket. Members of the baking club turned up for their meeting at the cookery room. Aides gathered for a morning coffee at the table outside the pub. It was pleasantly noisy in the indoor mall—supermarket carts rattling along the brick floor, aides calling to one another as they walked by, jazz audible through the open door of the Café de Hogeweyk. An elderly woman wearing a lilac scarf and a hot-pink jacket scooted past in a motorized wheelchair. Another woman, in red jeans and a purple fleece, strode rapidly through the mall, carrying a large zippered bag, and soon afterward strode equally rapidly back in the other direction. A woman with a long gray braid and a stricken look wandered slowly around, murmuring to herself.

In the late morning, a group of young mothers and their toddlers began to gather at the tables in the main courtyard. Some weeks earlier, a staff member had spotted a mother playing with her child on a tiny lawn on a nearby street, and had invited her to bring the child to play in the spacious courtyards of De Hogeweyk. Now groups of ten or twelve mothers came for lunch every Wednesday, and their toddlers ran about with their toys. Since the residents of De Hogeweyk can’t go outside, the staff tried to cultivate a more normal atmosphere by bringing the outside in. The restaurant was designed to emulate a chic urban establishment, with statement ceiling lamps and a fifteen-foot-high backlit bar, in order to attract people from the town to eat there. At midday, two coroners, a man and a woman, both wearing black suits, walked quickly through the mall to the residences on the other side. Sometime later, they returned, wheeling a coffin out through the courtyard, past the mothers and children.

After lunch, the mothers packed up and left. A little later, an elderly man in a beige windbreaker who had been walking restlessly around all morning came upon their now empty tables and chairs. He picked up the chairs one by one and rearranged them by type; then he moved about the area, picking up dead leaves and tiny bits of rubbish from the ground and depositing them in a trash can.

At two-thirty, there was to be a piano-and-harp concert in De Hogeweyk’s indoor mall. Two rows of chairs were lined up to face the piano, and each resident was guided to a seat. Before the performance, an aide wheeled a cart around, offering wineglasses filled with advocaat, a traditional Dutch alcoholic drink resembling thickened eggnog, which isn’t drunk much anymore but used to be served at special events by older generations.

The pianist played and sang old songs that everybody knew—“Edelweiss,” “ ’O Sole Mio,” “The Blue Danube,” “Moon River.” Many in the audience sang along: some people with dementia who can no longer speak can still find the words to sing. Then the harpist took her turn, and she, too, played well-loved music that was deeply familiar—“Jesu, Joy of Man’s Desiring,” “Ode to Joy,” Brahms’s “Lullaby.” A woman in a blue cardigan knew the words to Brahms’s “Lullaby,” and sang along in a strong alto voice. A man in a wheelchair wearing a pale-gray blazer beat time to the music with his eyes closed, a look of intense joy on his face.

After a while, some people—those who could—began to dance. They stood up from their chairs, holding hands with aides, and shifted slowly from side to side. The woman with the gray braid and the stricken expression walked to the middle of the floor but then stopped to listen to the piano. The harpist, standing there while the pianist played, smiled at her and offered her hands; the woman smiled back and accepted her hands and began to sway to the music. The man in the beige windbreaker, who had not stopped moving all morning, had stopped now, and sat in the back row. The music was neither fake nor true. It was both past and present, and could be understood without fear of mistakes or forgetting.

The harpist played “Greensleeves.” The pianist played “Für Elise.” Administrative staff emerging from a meeting on the second floor of the mall leaned on the railing of the balcony outside and stood with the residents to listen. ♦